Bun is a pleasant surprise. I am consistently wowed by the delicious flavors of owner Executive Chef Tony Lam’s Vietnamese cuisine. The perfectly balanced ingredients bring out the natural vibrancy of the aromas, juices and flavors in his food. Much of the Vietnamese cuisine in the City either relies on MSG or is too dull in its repetitive use of seasoning. That is not the case here. The herbs, spices and sauces are not an afterthought just to embellish but are carefully orchestrated to match the ingredients in each dish.
For a starter, one of the most memorable dishes is the baby lamb. Tied together by a banana leaf, three pieces of the tenderest, most succulent baby lamb chops sit atop a bed of warm, soft eggplant, pear chutney and anise sauce. The chutney and sauce may make this dish sound “exotic” and overdressed in “fusion,” but believe me it’s not. The pure and simple flavors are subtle, home-style and satisfying.
Editor’s PickCelia Sin-Tien Cheng | September 29, 2008
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